aux battery - no dc dc converter required

seems to make more sense to me to get a bigger aux battery and not have a dc dc converter

then I will need a 12v battery charger - mabye like this?

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MB3610&CATID=&keywords=MB3610&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=

or maybe there are much cheaper examples

then I can run the power to connect both the 72V and 12V charger from 12V relay

Geoff Cs Mazda 121 Metro

http://www.aeva.asn.au/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=181

heater for rego

for rego - need a heater for demisting - will this do? 300W ceramic heater from ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Car-Heater-12v-for-Camptrail-caravan-Boat-300-WATTS_W0QQitemZ380061590650QQihZ025QQcategoryZ33542QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

aeva forum discussion
http://www.aeva.asn.au/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=528

Mazda 121 info

looking for info about GVM

this may be help in the future

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autozam_Revue

or this one

http://www.goauto.com.au/mellor/mellor.nsf/story2/F5240B23F46A36ADCA256D49001DB7DC

I think that this is the same

http://www.mynrma.com.au/cps/rde/xchg/mynrma/hs.xsl/Mazda_121_1991_car_review.htm

Fuses/ circuit breakers/ emergency cutoffs

I need an emergency cutoff and a circuit braker/ fuse.

Maybe this would do the job for both?

https://www.zeva.com.au/store.php?product=39

or a more obvious one for just the emergency cutoff

https://www.zeva.com.au/store.php?product=38


I had not thought of a mechanical remote for the circuit breaker

http://www.aeva.asn.au/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=99

The best/safest way is to use a circuit breaker (e.g shameless advertisement http://zeva.com.au/store.php?product=39), and rig up a pushrod/cable allowing you to trip the lever manually by remote. The advantage here is that you also get the safety of a circuit breaker on your power line!



I have been thinking about using a cable to the circuit breaker - looks like that has already been done which is good

http://www.kiwiev.com/control%20panel%20-%20control%20box%20wired%20up%20and%20ready%20for%20the%20main%20cable.jpg

Which gear is the best

Been doing a lot of thinking about this.

I like this comment from

http://www.aeva.asn.au/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=506

If you retain the gearbox, just put it in the gear that requires the least battery side A to do the job (ie watch the A guage) :)

Sounds like a great idea, that should take into account the efficiency map.

Charge interlock

seems a good idea for a number of reasons, not least that the controller may be damaged

this may be a nice option?

http://jonglauser.blogspot.com/2008/05/modification-charge-interlock.html

good discussion here - wiki may be relevant for other stuff as well

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Electric_vehicle_conversion_chapter:_control_and_interlocks

This photo seems to show the electric echo "interlock" on the fuel filler door

http://www.electric-echo.com/images/DiaryImages/PowerCordBig.JPG

I dont believe that is fully mechanical - looks like it goes into the control of the contactor

I should be able to use a relay such as this one to only connect the charger when it is on:

from -
http://www.aeva.asn.au/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=528

Found this relay just now at Futurelec
SSRDC200V40A SPST 0-200Vdc 40A DC Solid State Relay
$24.95

LINK

Futurlec
2 / 136 Broadmeadow Rd,
Broadmeadow,
NSW 2292
Australia

Fax Number - Local: 02 94 75 4051

Actually - on second look, the input can only be to 36V - I should still use a relay such as this but will have to be driven from the 12V charger.