sepex - next thing to look into

I am still attracted to the idea of doing away with the gearbox and driving the driveshafts directly.
Seems that the use of two separately excited motors would be the way to go for this.

Main drawbacks could be efficiency and available controllers.

If I could find a series controller that was current controlled then maybe I could just use two controllers (one for main windings and one for field windings).

The other problem would be finding two small enough sepex motors.

There may also be issues with getting the gearing correct. Prob safest to run a toothed belt drive to each drive shaft so that the mechanical gearing can be varied to ensure that the motor runs most efficiently at normal driving speed (maybe 50-60km/hr)

This sounds like a bit more fun on the control side and less just copying everyone else. It also allows work to be done before the vehicle is purchased. The mechanical conversion is probably also easier.

I think that I want two of these connected in series (72v system, 17hp)

http://www.cloudelectric.com/inc/sdetail/1065

sep ex controller

curtis faq (sepex)

packages

http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/ddmotor.htm

seems fro the general curtis faq that connecting two motors in series should be okay

http://curtisinst.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=FAQ.ListMotorControllers

possible motors

need to sort out what motor and what voltage

Maybe the Classic ADC version? But check out the curves that they link to - looks a bit medieval!

Is sepex the answer - does it avoid the gearbox? Does not look as efficient as the series versions

http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/ddmotor.htm

other D&D - similar to the ADC 4001

http://www.cloudelectric.com/inc/sdetail/3271

or a slightly smaller version - 72-96

http://www.cloudelectric.com/inc/sdetail/1045

I will need to fill this in and see what they suggest from the d&d site

http://ddmotorsystems.com/DriveQuote.shtml

and maybe join the mailing list

http://ddmotorsystems.com/MailingList.shtml

but bedtime now.

Kelly controller

If I use a Kelly controller - here is the user manual

http://www.kellycontroller.com/mot/KellyKDUserManual.pdf

they seem to be a lot cheaper if you go stick to a 72V (rated voltage) system. I will have to do some calcs to see if I can get away with a 72V (or 84V with regen - need to know more about this) system.

Thinking at the moment

The car is almost certainly going to be a mazda 121. Kelly is happy that it is an interesting enough car. A moke or a mini would be good but I think that I would spend more time working on the nonelectric bits of the car.

I was thinking of going with dual etek motors directly but that seems to be a bad idea. See link
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?p=44441

The reason for going for the dual etek was for greater efficiency with the pm motor but as the curves for the etek seem to have similar efficiency to a warp series wound motor that is not really relevant

curves for etek

http://www.electricmotorsport.com/store/images/EV_Parts/motors/ETEK-RT%20Performance%20Data.pdf

curves for impuse warp 9

http://www.go-ev.com/images/003_07_ImPulse_9_Graph.jpg

I am leaning towards using the warp motors as they have better published data. I have to do more research as to which is the best to use.

There is a vehicle on the vehicle archives similar to what I am planning

http://www.evalbum.com/1700

He has kept the gearbox which I think is a wise idea.

I think that I will use a Kelly controller as it is cheaper and more programmable - see discussion in link

http://www.cloudelectric.com/kits_to_use_in_an_ev_#5

so - car, motor and controller temporarily sorted out. Time to go to bed